We weigh just about half what a Model S does, so if anything my fear is that in the failsafe mode this will be overboosted, although that'll be offset by the 23>25mm bore, so maybe it'll be a wash on pedal effort, but with shorter stroke? That sounds ideal. The Model S booster is dual 25mm, so not only will the balance be fine, it's actually exactly what some people find is a better ratio (with a slightly firmer pedal and less travel) As long as we keep both cylinders the same size there's no change to brake balance. There's a (I think) 7 series booster that's dual 25mm that some people use as an upgrade to a firmer pedal. The e30 booster (I think, this is the brakes section so correctly me if I'm wrong) is dual tandem 23mm cylinders. So what do we know about this booster and what do I think? Maybe it would have still fit rotated the other way, but it's handy to have the wiring on top, and the computer module tucks so neatly behind the shock tower here: Here's one where I'm wiggling my finger in the gap because I can't believe how well this fits: Here it is from the front with a ruler behind it: The booster actually *tapers down* where we need it to. Here's the Tesla model S Bosch iBooster rotated 180 degrees with all of the components listed above stacked up next to it: We haven't seen a dyno result from this manifold on this engine yet (I don't think) and I certainly haven't seen one apples to apples comparing it to the 3-stage, but it's a very close match for the intake ports, and probably does fine or better at high rpm at the cost of some low end torque and of course with the huge benefit of more space under the hood. There's been a few n52 swaps (someone tag them here if I'm wrong but I think it's cwlo and wazzu70) but they've been using the N54 intake manifold (from the later turbo engine) which is much shorter. A loose 328i intake manifold, with the same exterior dimensions as the 3-stage DISA manifold that I'm planning on using for the n52 swap (from a 330i/Z4 3.0si)įrom everything I've read, this intake manifold is a greater challenge to fit against a booster than the other M5x/S5x 24v engines. A set of engine arms that adapt the block to the e30 subframe via e46 motor mounts and locate it correctly in the chassisĤ. Just about the only thread I post in is related to the engine swap we're working on, and I have a pile of toys lying around related to that, including:Ģ. It turns out it's slightly too short, but that should be very easy to fix: The brake rod is so close to fitting. Here's what it looks like when you pull it out of a Model S:Ī huge bonus to this unit is that orientation of the "booster" segment isn't important, the firewall pattern is square, and the master cylinder interface is symmetrical: It didn't take long for me to confirm that the 72mm was the same pattern as the e30 booster, and I had one on the way in the mail. He also documented how he got the booster installed in his Volvo, which included the bolt pattern at the firewall: Not only did he have documentation for the pinout for the unit he used, which was from a Tesla: Searching specifically for that, I came across Lars, (a Volvo 122 Amazon enthusiast like my brother) in the Netherlands. which makes complete sense, because if you lose a data connection you'd like to have the booster go back to "dumb" mode. I found a reference on a DeLorean forum from YEARS ago about these boosters working in a failsafe mode. When I got back from the yard I was convinced this was worth looking into, but the size of the plugs to these boosters was pretty intimidating. When your brake force request exceeds what the regen system can provide, it starts to add hydraulic braking with the electronic booster. A lot of these have an electronic brake booster to allow for the computer to decide how much brake is provided by the hydraulics, and how much is provided by the regenerative brake system (so under light braking, you might push the pedal with 30% effort, and it might feel like your brakes are being boosted, but it's actually the electric motor braking to recharge the batteries). I spent an afternoon with hoveringuy picking up an engine for his swap at a specialty wrecker near us, and I think he was getting a little tired of me ducking in and out under the hood of every EV and hybrid on the lot. I'm working on a swap right now and had resolved myself to doing a manual pedal box to avoid this whole situation. I thought I'd post this here since it's the brakes section, but this is mostly of interest to anybody doing a swap who's been struggling with finding a booster that will fit against a 24v intake manifold.
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